Staunton State Park Climbing Development Guidelines

Last updated on March 27, 2023

Staunton State Park exists as part of Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW). Staunton State Park features roughly 4,000 acres of land, with many cliffs, spires, and domes; home to hundreds of climbing routes. These guidelines apply to all climbing fixed hardware activities in Staunton State Park. Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. Access to such activities is conditioned on your assumption of all risk. CPW does not install or take responsibility for any hardware or routes on Department of Public Outdoor Recreation (DPOR) property.

PERMITS

Permits are required for the following activities:

• Establish a new route requiring fixed hardware, i.e., bolts
• Add, remove, or relocate bolts from an existing route
• Replace any fixed pins with a bolt
• Remove large quantities of loose rock that could cause serious injury, death, and/or significant destruction to natural resources

Types of Permits include General Fixed Hardware Permit (individual new routes, replacing bolts, etc.) and Programmatic Permit (annual permit approving a developer for specific crags). Programmatic-permitted development can be done at specified Approved Crags or at Conditional Crags. Conditional Crags require additional Staunton State Park Fixed Hardware Review Group oversight. Applications and lists of specified crags are linked and currently hosted at https://sspfhrg.com website. Applications are reviewed by the Staunton State Park Fixed Hardware Review Group (FHRG) and forwarded to park management, who will provide any approved permits.

FIXED HARDWARE GUIDELINES

For the protection of our visitors and natural resources, the following guidelines must be followed.

1. Bolts and hangers must both be stainless steel. Mechanical bolts (not including sleeve assembly) need to be a minimum of 3/8” in diameter and 3.5” in length, however the powers “power bolt” in the 1/2′′ x 2.75′′ variety is acceptable. Note that the powers “power bolt” in the 3/8′′ variety is NOT acceptable as the inner bolt is less than 3/8′′ in diameter. Glue-in bolts shall be strength-rated by the manufacturer to withstand 25kN ultimate shear load and 20kN ultimate tension load. If you feel an alternate form of fixed hardware is necessary, you must have written consent from the FHRG to do so. Plated steel quick links, chain, rap rings, mussy hooks, etc. are permitted at top anchors, but the hangers must be stainless steel.

2. Route developers are expected to install functional fixed hardware and remove hazardous loose rocks. It is understood that hardware conditions and rock hazard conditions on developed climbs change with time and that climbing hardware maintenance and hazard rock mitigation is the responsibility of the local climbing community, which may include the developer, individual members of the FHRG, and the local climbing organization, Boulder Climbing Community (BCC). Additionally, the local climbing community has resources and expertise to replace bolts utilizing the original hole. It is also understood that any climber that identifies a hazard, can/should place a red tag on the first bolt and notify the BCC, FHRG, and/or park management of the hazard. If a developer is installing hardware that needs immediate maintenance or routes with unmitigated rockfall hazards, the FHRG and CPW will convene to discuss the compliance actions to be addressed, including revoking development permits.

Permanent Metal Draws

a. Safety: Permadraws shall only be used to improve the safety of the route they are placed on. Route safety is the most important component to consider. Permanent non-metal draws are not accepted.

b. Aesthetic: Developers should take into account the natural beauty of an area they are considering installing permadraws. (Can the general public have easy access or clear visibility? Does the addition subtract from stunning natural rock features?)

c. To bolt or not to bolt: In the event the route would not enhance Staunton’s climbing opportunities, the route should not be developed.

GENERAL GUIDELINES

For the protection of the park, our visitors, and natural resources, the following guidelines must be followed.

Permitting

1. All persons who place/fix/remove rock climbing hardware must first obtain a valid special activities permit to do so. Pursuant to Title 33-15-102(1) Regulation #100.C.25 Natural Resource Protection
2. When possible, avoid using trees or other vegetation as anchors. This is destructive to cliff ecology and natural resources. Pursuant to Title 33-15-102(1) Regulation #100.C.
3. Do not alter fixed and stable natural rock, except to install permitted fixed hardware and take off loose rocks. Manufacturing holds through chiseling/chipping is prohibited. Pursuant to Title 33-15-102(1) Regulation #100.C.2
4. Special management priorities, such as the presence of endangered species, raptors, and/or cultural resources etc. must be actively looked for and immediately reported to the FHRG. Park staff cannot protect resources if we are not aware of them. Failure to report the presence of management priorities may result in the probation/cancellation of your permit, issuance of a citation and/or affect your future use of Colorado Parks and Wildlife properties. Pursuant to Title 33-15-102(1) Regulation #100.C

Developing with Another Permitted Developer

1. Permit holders must be present during development of crags or routes they hold permits for.
2. Development partners are not to develop routes without the permit holder being present. Partners are encouraged to submit their own applications if they want to develop routes without the permit holder.

Quality

1. Being able to develop routes programmatically and/or individually is a unique opportunity, and as such the route should be of high quality. Not every “line” in Staunton needs to be developed, so always ask yourself if the route you’re interested in will truly enhance the experience of those visiting the park. When in doubt, submit a formal application or route review request regardless of current permitting status.
2. It is up to the developer to assess the availability of natural protection. In general, bolts should not be placed where natural protection is adequate. When in doubt, submit a formal application.

Cleaning/Trundling

1. When to Trundle
   1. Only routes that can be developed to a safe standard without causing excessive damage are acceptable. Excessive damage includes mass casualty of natural resources that would not be heavily impacted by climbing traffic (ie. trees, vegetation beyond the access trail and belay area etc.). For high traffic routes, the safe standard is to not have rocks (where they will interact with climbers or their ropes) that are a potential risk of serious injury or death to climbers or people below.
   3. Consider minimizing rock removal damage to the base area by mitigating hazardous rocks by means other than trundling: Lower them with ropes/grip hoist, stabilize on ledges, split/break them up and carry them off, etc.
   4. Routes whose development would result in excessive damage (mass casualties) of resources beyond belay pads and high climber traffic zones should not be done.
   5. If you are unsure if your potential route could be developed to a safe standard without excessive damage, reach out to a fellow developer for a second opinion. Try to reach out to an individual who has different philosophies than you. If the second opinion fails to produce a solution, bring your situation to the FHRG. If the FHRG fails to reach a consensus, the problem must be brought to Park Staff for decision.
2. Developers must notify park staff before cleaning a route to ensure proper safety measures are being taken (i.e. trails needing to be closed/preventing unnecessary response to visitor reports, etc).
3. Debris from trundling needs to be cleaned up (stabilized, erosion control, staged for belay pads, trails, etc.) in as timely as possible.

Crag Designations

1. Crag Definition: Staunton State Park defines a crag as an aspect of a cliff. As an example, an exposed cliff may have a continuous wall that faces west, south, and east, but a permitted crag may only span one cardinal direction. The length of a continuous rock face will also be taken into consideration when defining a crag. For example, Roughneck and Wildcater are two separate crags because of the expansive nature of the cliff. Exceptions can be made by park management on a case-by-case basis.
2. Programmatic Crags
   Routes developed under a programmatic permit are only permissible at crags on the “Approved Crags List”. Each programmatic developer must prioritize at most 3 crags that they want to develop programmatically. Note that minor changes to a developers programmatic permit can be reviewed by the FHRG throughout the year and authorized by park management.
3. Conditional Crags
   Conditional crags or un-classified crags are a subclass of crags that require additional FHRG oversight on a route-by-route basis prior to cleaning/development. These crags are typically known to have loose rock or sensitive natural resources. The goal is to balance safety with preservation of natural resources at these crags. New routes at conditional crags can be applied for using the General Fixed Hardware Application.

Route Spacing/Uniqueness:

1. All routes developed under a programmatic permit must have unique moves. That is, routes must not share holds with existing routes. In general, routes should be at least 8 feet apart to avoid squeeze jobs. Sometimes it is better to share starting/ending moves rather than contriving an independent line. If a route is going to share moves (or protection) with another route, the developer must submit a General Fixed Hardware Application to the FHRG prior to development.
2. Please refer to all available information regarding historic/existing routes before developing a “new” route. When in doubt, submit a General Fixed Hardware Application.
3. Refrain from “over-bolting.”

Courtesy/Due Diligence

1. New climbing areas may not be published until park management has approved an accesstrail and such a trail has been completed. Exceptions can be made by park management on a case-by-case basis. The developer must work with the staff climbing liaison, park staff, or the park trail coordinator to show them what route they, as the developer, took to the new crag. Park staff will work with the trail coordinator and volunteer trail crew to begin mapping and building a route to the crag. Note that new crags will not be posted to the public until a trail is complete. The climbing community cannot enjoy your hard work until this trail is in place and any and all help mapping and building an approved trail is appreciated.
2. Upon request, park tools may be provided. Tools will not be cached and will be returned the same day they were borrowed unless otherwise specified by park management.
3. Do not develop rock climbing routes/areas under the influence of marijuana or alcohol. Recreational marijuana is legal in the state of Colorado, but consumption of it in public places is not. As a permitted developer, you are expected to conduct yourself in a professional manner.
4. Programmatic developers have the ability to see all current/pending fixed hardware applications at Staunton State Park. It is the responsibility of the programmatic developer to ensure that they do not develop a route that has a current/pending application from a non-programmatic developer and communicate with permit holders to reduce competitive development. Additionally, programmatic developers should keep in mind routes that other developers have expressed interest in or planned, and refrain from developing these routes unless given explicit permission to do so.

Reporting

1. All routes developed with fixed hardware at Staunton must be reported to the FHRG within 2 days of completing fixed hardware installation. Individually permitted routes can be reported to the FHRG by email. Programmatic-permitted routes can be reported to the FHRG at Submit Programmatic Routes. Minor fixed hardware adjustments (shifting anchor/crux bolt a few feet) can be made by the permitted route developer for a period of up to 60 days after initial fixed hardware installation and reporting.
2. Refrain from publishing routes at currently unpublished crags until the crag is deemed ready for public use by the FHRG. Developers are encouraged to publish their routes to the Mountain Project route database or directly with Staunton climbing guidebook authors. It is understood that some developers do not utilize or publish route information to Mountain Project. Routes properly reported to the FHRG will be cataloged by the Staunton climbing guidebook authors, may be included in guidebook updates, and may be published to Mountain Project by others.

Renewal of Programmatic Permit

1. Intent for renewal of programmatic permits must be received annually by December 31st. This can be done by emailing the FHRG at sspfhrg@gmail.com.
2. Programmatic permits are valid for one calendar year and will expire 12 months from the approval date.

COMPLIANCE

1. Failure to comply with any of the guidelines within this document, park rules and regulations, fixed hardwear guidelines, or state law could result in the probation/cancellation of your permit, issuance of a citation and/or affect your future use of Colorado Parks and Wildlife properties.
2. Climbing areas and undeveloped areas on DPOR property will be monitored by the climbing community as a whole, the FHRG, CPW staff, and volunteers.
3. Unpermitted fixed hardware will be removed immediately.
4. You may report unpermitted fixed hardware, violation of CPW rules and regulations, loose rock, loose hardware, or violation of these guidelines by calling Staunton State Park at (303) 816-0912.