Programmatic Guidelines

Programmatic Developing Guidelines

    1. Approved Crags
      • Routes developed under a programmatic permit are only permissible at crags on the “Approved Crags List”.  Each programmatic developer must prioritize at most 5 crags that they want to develop at programmatically.  Note that minor changes to a developers programmatic permit can be authorized by the FHRG throughout the year. 
    2. Conditional Crags
      • Conditional crags are a subclass of approved crags that require additional FHRG oversight  on a route-by-route basis prior to cleaning/development.  These crags are typically known to have loose rock or sensitive resources at the base. The route review process for programmatic developers at conditional crags, will take significantly less time than an application submitted under the General Fixed Hardware Review Process as a programmatic developer already has a special use permit to develop routes in the park. The goal is to balance safety with preservation of natural resources at these crags. New routes at conditional crags can be applied for using the General Fixed Hardware Application.
    3. Quality/Natural Protection
      • Being able to develop routes programmatically is a unique opportunity, and as such the route should be of high quality.  Not every “line” in Staunton needs to be developed so always ask yourself if the route you’re interested in will truly enhance the experience of those visiting the park.  When in doubt, submit a formal application. 
      • It is up to the developer to assess the availability of natural protection.  In general, bolts should not be placed where natural protection is adequate. When in doubt, submit a formal application.
    4. Route Spacing/Uniqueness
      • All routes developed under a programmatic permit must have unique moves. That is, routes must not share holds with existing routes.  If a route is going to share moves (or protection) with another route, the developer must submit a formal application to the FHRG prior to development. In general, routes should be at least 8 feet apart to avoid squeeze jobs. 
      • Please refer to all available information regarding historic/existing routes before developing a “new” route. When in doubt, submit a formal application.
      • Refrain from “over-bolting.”
    5. Due Diligence
      • Programmatic developers have the ability to see all current/pending fixed hardware applications at Staunton State Park.  It is the responsibility of the programmatic developer to ensure that they do not develop a route that has a current/pending application from a non-programmatic developer.
    6. Cleaning
      • Routes should be properly and thoroughly cleaned of loose rocks/blocks. 
      • Developers must notify park staff before cleaning a route to ensure proper safety measures are being taken (i.e. trails needing to be closed).
      • When cleaning, be aware of the resources around the area (e.g. routes and natural resources) and take measures to protect the resources to the best of your ability.
      • Debris from trundling needs to be cleaned up in as timely of a manner as possible.
      • When in doubt, seek additional input/feedback from the FHRG.
    7. Manufacturing
      • Chipping or manufacturing of holds in anyway is not permitted. 
    8. Hardware
      • All fixed hardware installed programmatically must satisfy the requirements laid out in Section 2 of the Fixed Hardware Guidelines.
    9. Reporting
      • All routes developed programmatically must be reported within 2 days of installation.  This can be done at Submit Programmatic Routes.
      • Refrain from posting routes at currently unpublished crags to Mountain Project until the crag is deemed ready for public use by the FHRG.
    10. Renewal of Programmatic Permit
        • Intent for renewal of programmatic permits must be received annually by November 15th.  This can be done by emailing the FHRG at