Programmatic Guidelines

Programmatic Developing Guidelines

  1. Approved Crags
    • Routes developed under a programmatic permit are only permissible at crags on the “Approved Crags List”.  Furthermore, each developer holding a programmatic permit is only permitted to develop programmatically (without formal review process) at the crags/areas listed on their permit.  Each programmatic developer must prioritize at most 5 crags that they want to develop at programmatically. Anything outside of these 5 crags must be developed on a route-by-route basis. 
  2. Quality/Natural Protection
    • Being able to develop routes programmatically is a unique opportunity, and as such the route should be of high quality.  Not every “line” in Staunton needs to be developed so always ask yourself if the route you’re interested in will truly enhance the experience of those visiting the park.  When in doubt, submit a formal application. 
    • It is up to the developer to assess the availability of natural protection.  In general, bolts should not be placed where natural protection is adequate. When in doubt, submit a formal application.
  3. Route Spacing/Uniqueness
    • All routes developed under a programmatic permit must have unique moves. That is, routes must not share holds with existing routes.  If a route is going to share moves (or protection) with another route, the developer must submit a formal application to the FHRG prior to development.
    • Please refer to all available information regarding historic/existing routes before developing a “new” route. When in doubt, submit a formal application.
    • Refrain from “over-bolting.”
  4. Due Diligence
    • Programmatic developers have the ability to see all current/pending fixed hardware applications at Staunton State Park.  It is the responsibility of the programmatic developer to ensure that they do not develop a route that has a current/pending application from a non-programmatic developer.
  5. Cleaning
    • Routes should be properly and thoroughly cleaned of loose rocks/blocks. 
    • Developers must notify park staff before cleaning a route to ensure proper safety measures are being taken (i.e. trails needing to be closed).
  6. Manufacturing
    • Chipping or manufacturing of holds in anyway is not permitted.  
  7. Hardware
    • Bolts and hangers must both be stainless steel.
    • Bolts (not including sleeve assembly) need to be a minimum of 3/8” in diameter and 3” in length, however the Powers “power bolt” in the 1/2″ x 2.75″ variety is acceptable.  Note that the Powers “power bolt” in the 3/8″ variety is NOT acceptable as the inner bolt is less than 3/8″ in diameter. 
    • Hangers and anchor chain/rap rings must be camouflaged to reduce the glare/sheen of the hangers. This can be done by spray painting the hangers BEFORE instillation, or by using pre-coated hangers.
  8. Reporting
  9. Renewal of Programmatic Permit
    • Intent for renewal of programmatic permits must be received annually by November 15th.